フレンチワークの象徴！Adolphe Lafontのchiteki（知的）

[Detailed explanation] The symbol of French work! Adolphe Lafont's black moleskin jacket

table of contents

  1. Introduction: Why is French Work attracting attention now?
  2. The History and Appeal of Moleskin Fabric
  3. Adolphe Lafont brand history
  4. Highlights of the Black Moleskin Jacket
  5. Thorough analysis of the details: Look here and you'll see the difference!
  6. Practical and fashionable benefits
  7. Coordination examples: From work to dressy
  8. Tips for maintenance and long life: Delicate washing and storage
  9. Value in the vintage market and how to identify it
  10. Summary: If you want to enjoy the depth of French workmanship, this is the piece for you!

1. Introduction: Why is French Work attracting attention now?

In recent years, European vintage items have been gaining more and more attention. Among them, "French Work" in particular has attracted fans from all over the world due to its historical background, fashionability, and high functionality.

Workwear = Functionality + Stylish <br> Workwear is originally made with emphasis on ease of work and durability. However, French workwear has a unique charm that combines practicality and elegance, and is easy to incorporate into everyday wear and fashion items.

The trend towards sustainable fashion Choosing durable items that can be worn for a long time, rather than disposable items, matches the trend towards sustainability in recent years. Vintage clothing such as French workwear is becoming increasingly popular as a piece of clothing that can be worn for a long time, due to its high durability and the beauty of its changes over time.

In this article, we will thoroughly explain the black moleskin jacket from Adolphe Lafont, a brand that is iconic of French workwear, from its historical background to how to wear it.

2. The History and Appeal of Moleskin Fabric

2-1. What is Moleskin?

Moleskin is a fabric made by weaving cotton at a very high density and brushing the surface. The name comes from the fact that it feels like mole skin. It is characterized by its smooth and soft texture, as well as its firm thickness and durability.

Source: https://sabimariblog.com/mogura

2-2. The Industrial Revolution and Moleskin

During the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, heavy labor in factories and mines in Europe increased sharply, leading to a rise in demand for work clothes. Moleskin, with its durability and excellent heat retention, became a popular material in France and England for work pants and work jackets.

2-3. Advantages of moleskin

  • Durability : High density weave makes it resistant to washing and wear, and unlikely to tear even in work situations.

  • Thermal insulation : The brushed surface traps air, keeping you warm in cold weather.
  • Stain resistance : Even if dirt or oil gets on the fabric, the thickness of the fabric means that the dirt stays on the surface, making it easy to maintain.
  • Aging : The more you use it, the more the color fades and the more it develops a more refined look. As you can see in the photo, the stitching around the cuffs (around the area sewn with thread) has faded and turned slightly white.

color=red

3. Adolphe Lafont's brand history

3-1. Founded in 1896, a pioneer of French work

Adolphe Lafont is a long-established workwear brand founded in France around 1896.

Adolphe Lafon took over the family store with great ambitions. Noticing the success of the clothes made in the workshop and perhaps wanting to discourage competitors, he registered the name "Adolphe Lafon" in 1896 and decided to create an easily recognizable label.

He thus founded the first workwear brand registered in France.

When the company was first founded, it focused on making durable clothing for workers, and its high quality earned it the support of many craftsmen.

Source: https://www.a-lafont.com/en/pages/notre-histoire

3-2. Popularization in France

By the early 20th century, it had become widely used in factories, farms and craftsmen all over France, and had grown into a representative brand of French workwear. Not only was it durable, but its simple, timeless and easy-to-use design attracted many users.

3-3. Current evaluation and vintage market

Even in the current vintage market, Adolphe Lafont is so well-known that the formula "Adolphe Lafont = symbol of French work" holds true. In particular, items from the 1950s to 1980s that still have tags or have the original buttons and stitching from that time are often traded at high prices as collector's items.

4. Highlights of the Black Moleskin Jacket

4-1. Black color is rare in French work

When it comes to French work jackets, the standard colors are generally "ink blue" or "blue gray." Therefore, black work jackets are produced in relatively small numbers and are considered rare even in the vintage market.
In fact, there are various theories, such as that it was adopted for work sites where dirt is easily noticeable, such as blacksmithing and railroads, or that it was influenced by regional or cultural factors. However, since there are very limited public documents and brand archives from that time, there are some points that lack clear evidence.
Either way, it is believed that black was produced in limited quantities among French workwear, which is strongly associated with blue, and vintage fans regard it as a rare color.

4-2. Chic and easy to match

While blue work jackets tend to have a more casual image, black work jackets tighten up the whole outfit and create a more sophisticated impression. Combined with the matte texture unique to moleskin, you can enjoy a sophisticated work style with a heavy feel. It can be worn in a wide variety of ways and is easy to incorporate into modern styling, which is its appeal.

5. Thorough analysis of the details: Look here and you'll see the difference!

5-1. Front buttons and buttonholes

Button History

1920s 1930s 1940s 1950s 1960s 1970s 1980s～
Chronology |----------|----------|----------|----------|----------|----------|

1) Natural material buttons: wood, bone, shell, glass, corozo (ivory palm fruit)
■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
(1800s to 1930s, Wood until 1950)

2) Metal buttons: metal, aluminum, animal (metal)
■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
(Euro vintage items are mostly from around 1930, but after World War II, military and uniform items became popular, and the 50s and 60s are especially common.)

3) Painted buttons: lacquer (painted on natural material buttons)
■■■■■■
(Late 1930s to 1940s)

4) Synthetic resin buttons: urea, cat's eye resin,
■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
(The late 1930s to the 1960s, when modern technology began to spread)

5) Synthetic resin buttons: plastic/polyester, etc.
(Emerged in the 1950s and 1960s, and remained mainstream through the 1970s and 1980s until the present day)

Wooden Button

Plastic Button


Buttonhole Shape

    • It is said that old items have a feeling of hand-stitching, and the so-called "hooks" are often noticeable. Since hooks are installed in areas that need strength, they are commonly found even in relatively new items. Just because something has hooks does not mean it is old.
    • However, it also depends on the production environment and repair/maintenance marks, so a comprehensive judgment is required.

Mechanical latch.

Hand-sewn rivets are very beautiful, as shown below.

Source: https://navy-circle.com/handsewn-bar-tacking-on-dresswear/#toc1


5-2. Size and placement of patch pocket on chest

Patch pocket size

    • A characteristic of French work bags in general is that they are made larger to make it easier to store tools and small items.
    • On the other hand, older specimens have a small V-shaped pocket on the chest. There are various theories as to its purpose, including that it was a cigarette pocket.

How to sew stitches

    • Single stitching is old, dating back to before the 1940s, while double stitching or chain stitching indicates that it dates back to around the 1960s. The use of a serger indicates that it was influenced by the wave of industrialization, so it is likely to be from the 1960s or 1970s. Generally, double stitching and chain stitching increase strength, so over time, they have become stronger as work clothes.
    • Since this varies depending on the facilities of the subcontractor factory and the times, a more accurate estimate can be made by considering other elements such as buttons and tags along with the stitching specifications.

Single stitching (single stitching at collar, double stitching at shoulders)

The photo was taken with the side turned inside out. Note the cross stitches. The horizontal direction is a regular stitch, and the vertical direction is a chain stitch.

The photo was taken with the side turned inside out. Note the cross stitching. Both the vertical and horizontal chain stitching is used here.

5-3. Tag specifications

tag

    • Several variations have been identified, ranging from older tags with embroidered cursive lettering, to tags from the 1950s or 1960s onwards that are embroidered but slightly rougher, to tags that are printed rather than embroidered.
    • It is common in the vintage market to estimate the rough age of an item based on the type of brand tag, whether it is embroidered or printed, the roughness of the print, and the 🄬 mark.

1940s embroidered tag

Source: https://ugla.stores.jp/items/653a098cd648d101eac8bbb5

There are many different types of embroidered tags. The one with the SANFOR shrink-proofing markings is from the 50s or 60s.

Source: https://www.straysheep-online.com/items/90763552

This one also has an embroidered tag, but is estimated to be from the 1960s to 1980s. It has the trademark 🄬 mark, so it is likely from the 1950s to 1960s or later.


5-4. Reinforcement of the chest pocket on the back

Triangle or bar

    • Older units from before the 1940s have triangular reinforcement, while those from the 1950s onwards tend to be bolt-shaped.

triangle

Lock


5-5. Fabric

1920-1930 Indigo linen, cotton linen

1930: Lightweight moleskin

1940s-1950s: Heavyweight moleskin (which became thicker and more durable with age)

1950 onwards: cotton twill

1960-1970 onwards: Cotton twill (polyester blend for a glossy finish)

5-6. Collar

Early 1930s and before: Single stitch

1940s onwards: Double stitching

*The years are estimates and may vary. Please consider them as a reference only. If you find any mistakes, please let us know and we will correct the article!

6. Practical and fashionable benefits

6-1. Durable and long-lasting

The moleskin material and sturdy stitching make these clothes tough enough to be worn over and over again even if they are second-hand. Their greatest strength is that they are resistant to tearing and damage even with daily wear.

6-2. Versatility regardless of season

The thickness of the moleskin makes it excellent for winter cold weather clothing, but it is also ideal as an outerwear in spring and autumn. It can be used almost all year round except for midsummer, so it is a versatile jacket that can be used for many purposes.

6-3. Easy to coordinate

The black color goes well with any pants or tops, making it easy to incorporate into your wardrobe. Not only can it be worn with a work style, but it can also be mixed and matched with pretty and feminine items.

7. Coordination examples: from work to dressy

  1. Royal work style

    • Denim pants + leather boots + plain T-shirt
    • A style that is unified with simple colors, making the jacket the focal point.

  2. Beautiful city-like

    • Slacks + white shirt or turtleneck + leather shoes
    • It neutralizes the work feel of the jacket, giving it an urban impression.

  3. Unisex oversized

    • For women, try wearing a large-sized jacket and pairing skinny or tapered pants with an accentuated look.
    • Pair it with sneakers or loafers for a casual yet classy look.

Thank you very much to h.yonezou for giving us permission to use the source.

Source: https://www.instagram.com/p/CHEgbJ4jGLy/

8. Tips for maintenance and long life: Delicate washing and storage

8-1. Washing method

To be honest, if you put it in a laundry net, you can wash it as you normally would (obviously, you can't put it in a dryer, unless you want to shrink it), but if you'd like, the following would be a better option.

  • Hand wash or delicate cycle is the best option : Although moleskin is durable, the harsh cycle of the washing machine can cause color fading and damage to the fabric.
  • Use a mild detergent : This will minimize color fading and will not damage the fabric.
  • Avoid the dryer : High temperatures can cause shrinkage and damage the nap, so it's best to dry in the shade.

8-2. How to remove wrinkles

  • When ironing: Use low to medium heat and place a cloth over the garment.
  • Steam iron : Removes wrinkles without damaging the nap of the fabric.

8-3. Storage method

  • Dry in the shade in a well-ventilated area : Be careful not to let moisture build up.
  • Use a clothing cover : If you are storing your clothes for a long period of time, it is a good idea to put a cover on them to protect them from dust and dirt.

9. Value in the vintage market and how to identify it

9-1. Differences in era and tags

  • The older the tag, the more valuable it is : Tags and logo designs from the 1950s to 1970s are often considered collector's items.
  • Stitching and button parts : If the original parts remain, the item will become even rarer.

9-2. The importance of condition

  • The "flavor" of discoloration and creases : While these are appreciated as a distinctive vintage feature, holes and major damage can lead to a significant decrease in value.
  • Repair marks : If the repairs have been done carefully, they may be appreciated as a "story" in themselves.

9-3. Size variations

  • Does it have a modern sizing ? Many vintage items tend to be on the smaller side, so anything larger than size L tends to be rare.
  • Check the actual measurements : The actual measurements will be the deciding factor in your purchase, so be sure to measure each part carefully.

10. Summary: If you want to enjoy the depth of French work, this is the piece for you!

Adolphe Lafont's black moleskin jacket

  • Functionality (durability, heat retention)
  • Design (simple and rare black color)
  • Historical background (a long-established brand representing French work)
    This item is packed with such elements and can be called a masterpiece.

The ruggedness of workwear and the elegance of France are perfectly blended together, so even if you incorporate it into a modern outfit, it doesn't feel outdated at all. Rather, the charm and story of vintage clothing adds to the enjoyment of fashion.

For those who want to know more: Related links

[Product page here]
We have posted actual product images, size details, prices, etc. We only have one in our shop, and it's not a super vintage item with an embroidered tag, but we hope it will be an introduction that will pique your interest.
→ https://withgrow-shop.com/products/french-vintage-black-moleskin-work-jacket

[Other French work items]
We carry not only Adolphe Lafont, but also other French and EU vintage brands.
→ https://withgrow-shop.com/collections/euro-vintage-%E3%83%A6%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AD%E3%83%B4%E3%82%A3%E3%83%B3%E3%83%86%E3%83%BC%E3%82%B8

lastly

The black moleskin jacket introduced this time is the perfect item to experience the depth of French workmanship. By learning about the history, learning about the materials, and actually trying it on, you will surely grow to love it even more. Please try incorporating it into your wardrobe and enjoy your daily coordination even more.

WITH GROW vintage&used clothing

Official site: https://withgrow-shop.com/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/withgrow_vintage/

If this content was helpful...

  • I would appreciate it if you could "like" it or share it on social media.
  • By subscribing to our e-mail newsletter, you will be the first to receive information on new items, sales, fashion suggestions, and more.
  • Please feel free to contact us with any inquiries or stock inquiries.

Back to blog